Edelma—the Only Female Taxi Driver on Isla Ometepe

When we first saw Edelma, after arriving in Isla Ometepe (Nicaragua), we weren’t sure if we should accept a ride with her.

She looked nice enough, but like the other taxi drivers, she was super eager and borderline pushy.  “Vamos,” she said. “I’ll find you a room, too.” My travel companion and I, feeling slightly cynical and jaded, were both a bit suspicious—sospechosas (in Spanish). We said no and tried to find the local bus.

Edelma, the only female taxi driver on Isla Ometepe

Taxi–the Only Choice

Ten minutes later, we realized that we’d missed the bus and that the next one wasn’t coming for an hour. (Per Lonely Planet, service was ‘infrequent.’) We would have to find a taxi if we were going to make our way around the island, which is 31 km long and between 5 to 10 km wide; many of its roads were crappy at the time. PS: we didn’t yet have a reservation for a room.

“Ven conmigo,” she said, approaching us again, with a warm, friendly smile. Come with me. The male taxi drivers were there, too, all trying to convince us to go with them, but we ignored them. We chose Edelma.

It turned out was the best decision we could have made.

Fun Ride Despite an Iffy Vehicle

Sure, it was a mini hell ride, being in her old ’85 Datsun pickup with broken windshield wipers and other ‘issues’ like rough steering, iffy suspension and dubious brakes. But it was fun. We laughed a lot and by the end of the day, we’d become friends. And we found a great room, too.

Inside Edelma's taxi

The next day we hired her for our own personal tour—and saw everything we wanted to. She suggested that we stop at Ojo del Agua, a lovely half-natural swimming hole surrounded by tropical vegetation and a tree growing in it, and we did.

We got to relax in cool, clear water and felt like we were in a mini paradise. After some hectic travel, it felt good to be in the moment. I was glad we took her taxi—and her advice.

Telling Her Story

During the time we spent with Edelma, we got to know her, and it was a heart-warming experience. A kind and authentic woman—one we’d misjudged—she told us her story…what her childhood was like, how she met her husband (also a “taxista”) and how she’d become a taxi driver.

Edelma, smiling and laughing

“We worked so hard back in Managua,” she said, explaining the types of  jobs (eg, cleaning) and the long hours. “We saved all our money and then came here and bought this taxi.” It had cost them several thousand dollars–a small fortune in Nicaragua.

“So…you’re the only female taxi driver on this island?” I asked. “Sí,” she said, grinning from ear to ear and laughing. Her pride was obvious.

Sharing Her Dream

While driving us around, she told us about her dream for the future—possible ownership of a small van, which would allow her to take more people around the island and to make more money—to have an easier life perhaps.

She shared her dream with me a few years ago. I wonder now if she made it come true. I certainly hope so. Whatever happened, I’m sure she’s still got that wonderful smile and that infectious laughter.

Edelma, the only female taxi driver on Isla Ometepe, warmed my heart and made me smile…and I’ll never forget her.

Edelma and her unforgettable smile

Your Thoughts/Experiences

Have you ever become buddies with your taxi driver? What was it like? What did you chat about? What did you do? And have you ever been driven around by a female taxi driver? If so, where? What was she like?

Have you been to Isla Ometepe? Did you see Edelma when you were there?

Your Input on This New Series, Please

This is the first post in a new series I may be starting called “Meet the Locals.” In each, I’d explain who I met, how/where and what they were like.

What do you think? Is this something you might enjoy reading more of in the future?