10 Ways Jamaica Surprised (and Didn’t Surprise) Me

Before traveling to Jamaica, I wondered what it would be like. Tourists everywhere? Super expensive? Rastas on every corner? Cheap Jerk chicken? And would I smell ganja being smoked 24/7?

Most of my questions were answered on my recent trip. I spent most of my time in Treasure Beach, which is off the beaten path, and some of it in the Negril area, which is not. I must say that the country took me by surprise and it was all quite positive!

Transportation

1. Tourist-Oriented Transportation Can Be Very Expensive

I shouldn’t have been surprised. In destinations like Bali and in some parts of Costa Rica, where tourism is common, private and semi-private transportation tends to cost a lot. In Jamaica, it was no different. Some private ‘rides’–eg, Montego Bay to Treasure Beach–could run $100 or more. One way.

Yikes.

But read on. I was surprised and happy to learn that it’s possible to avoid paying that kind of money–if one is a bit adventurous and willing to put up with some inconvenience. By taking the local transportation–known as shared taxis and route taxis–I spent $12 instead of $100 for the trip I mentioned above. Not bad, right?

2. Local Transportation Is An Option–and Isn’t As Complicated As It Seems

In some countries, the local transportation can be tricky. But in Jamaica, it wasn’t as bad as it was portrayed. I remember arriving at the airport and inquiring about ‘shared taxis’ and ‘route taxis,’ which I wanted/needed to take to get to Treasure Beach, a few hours away. The people working at the Tourist Info desk looked at me like I was from another planet. That’s how infrequently this type of transport is used by foreigners.

I didn’t let that stop me, however. And I’m glad I didn’t. I saved money and had fun.

3. Not Surprised: The Drivers Could Take On Any Chicken Bus Driver at Any Time

Once I figured out the local transportation, I realized it was somewhat typical.  In this case, there were a lot of mini buses. As much as I got a kick out of them, I must say–they’re not for everyone. The drivers drove like race car drivers in training! I remember being on a road where the limit was about 40 mph. The guy did 65, maybe 70. My nerves were shot for a while. The Jamaicans, of course, were unfazed.

Somehow, this did not surprise me.

People/Culture

4. Experiencing the Real Culture Was Easier Than I Imagined

I’d read that Treasure Beach was considered part of  the “Real Jamaica”–and for me, it was a great authentic travel experience. It was worth the effort it took to get to there. Sure, there’s a tourism infrastructure there, but not it’s not super developed. Just enough. Which means one can see how the locals (many of whom fish for a living) actually live.

5. The Locals (and Other Travelers) Were Friendly and Great to Get to Know

It’s easy to engage in conversations with the locals–and other travelers–especially in a place like Treasure Beach. I’d often sit on a bench and have a nice chat with adults and children and one little girl (Martika), the one in the photo, became my buddy for a few days. There was usually a hello hug and sometimes we walked together, arm in arm. It was sweet.

Fellow traveler Maria with Dawn, owner of Smurf Cafe

Negril was a bit different, of course, because it is geared to tourists and people automatically assume you’re rich and distance themselves. Still, I managed to get to know some of the people there, too. I let them know rather quickly that I’m a teacher and not wealthy and within a short time, we were able to connect. It didn’t feel the same as it did in Treasure Beach, but it was nice nevertheless.

6. The Food Was Amazing

I had a feeling it would be good, but I had no idea just how good. It was fantastic! The fried chicken was the best I’ve ever eaten in my life. And the seafood was wonderful. Shrimp in coconut cream sauce. Yum. Curried lobster. Wow. And, of course, the Jerk chicken. All good!

In this photo, you see a great meal I had as part of a buffet dinner at Smurf Cafe (Calabash Bay), which was my favorite restaurant of all. It was curried lobster, fried chicken, fried rice and salad. All for about $11. Wow!

Rastas…Ganga

7. Not as Many Rastas as I Thought

I only met a few Rastas during my trip. Each one I met was quite different, too. One was a wood carver and had a sweet, mellow energy. Another was an outgoing bartender. A third one was a hotel owner, an older dude, who was a sort of mysterious and seemed high on life–and maybe something else. Still, he was friendly.

8. Ganga Not Quite Omnipresent

I wouldn’t say it was omnipresent, but I was certainly aware of its presence. Quite often, when I’d be walking down the street in Treasure Beach, I’d smell the fumes wafting out from behind some bushes. And in the Negril area, several guys on the beach tried to sell it to me.

There was also this tree that I saw that I named the ‘Ganja Tree.’ There was something about it that made me think that it was created by someone who’d smoked marijuana.

Language and Culture

9. Not So Hard to Learn Patois

Jamaica has a fascinating history and a rich culture. You hear plenty of reggae and see images of Rasta culture, especially Bob Marley. And there’s the Patois, which Jamaicans speak. I noticed it right away and did my best to learn it. I loved it, too! The couple you see below gave me an impromptu Patois lesson at one point on a porch. I still have the notes and will bring them when I return to Jamaica.

10: Not Too Surprised: The Beauty of the Country

I knew it would be beautiful in Jamaica–I’d seen photos. But it was really impressive when I saw it in person. The mountainous areas, the black sand beaches and the flowers were gorgeous. And oh yeah, the sunsets. Wow! I felt I was under Jamaica’s spell. That’s why I want to return and plan to.

Your Thoughts/Experiences/Reactions?

Have you been to Jamaica–either on or off the beaten path? If so, what did you think? What, if anything, surprised you? And if not, then how was it what you expected?

What is your favorite island in the Caribbean and why?