SWF in Syria (4): Tips for a Great Trip to This (‘Bad Boy’) Country

A store in Hama that seemed dedicated to Valentine's Day

As you’ve seen in this series, it’s easy to fall in love with alleged ‘bad boy’ country Syria and have the time of your life there—whether you’re a man or a woman.

I did, after all, and  I’m a SWF.

Before you go, though, there are a few things you should know that will help make your first trip a great one.

As awesome as Syria is to visit (cool video here), he does have a few issues you should know about in advance.

Most of these tips are unisex; some are specific to women.

DO…

1. Consider Getting the Visa in Advance

Are you American? If so, you  might want to bite the bullet and do this–even though it’s pricey at $131. While many people are lucky—they wait 2-8 hours at the border, then pay just $30 to $50—some are unlucky are are rejected outright.

I met a couple (in Izzy) who’d tried to enter Syria via Lebanon. They were sent back to Beirut and had to fly one way to Amman—for about $300. They were really disappointed, too. I met other Americans who were turned down.

My best advice is to read travel blogs and see what the current situation is.

2. BYO…I

Bring your own way to get on the Internet—a netbook is ideal—or an iPad, iPhone or some other device that you use to stay connected. You can’t count on the connection at Internet cafes. The good news is that there’s often wifi available at hotels and cafes—and it’s often quite good.

PS: Syria’s mom is a bit weird about the Facebook and Youtube, so don’t be surprised if you can’t access them. But don’t worry—a subversive cousin has come up with some workarounds (eg, proxy IP addresses) for FB. Sometimes adding “s” after “http” is enough to get you on…

3. Stay at Hostels/Backpacker Places

I saw some places that a great value (mid-range quality/low-budget price), but there weren’t any travelers like me there. Just two men sitting at the front desk smoking, with a lot of men and some families were coming  and going. It didn’t feel comfortable to me as a solo female, so I kept looking. Don’t commit to a room unless it feels 100% right.

4. Accept Invitations/Help From Syrians

If someone offers you help, take them up on it. Some people will walk you all the way to your hotel or drive you where you need to go. And if they invite you to their home, you should take them up on it. (Women might want to only accept invitations from women and families—despite low risk in general.)

5. Learn Some Arabic

You should know how to say “hello,” “thank you,” “no thank you” and “how much.”  “I’m married,” and “leave me alone” are good for women to know. And if you learn how to ask “how much,” it’s good to know the numbers so that you can  understand the answers.

Modern Standard Arabic or dialect? That’s up to you.

DON’T…

6.  Talk About the Male Neighbors–Especially Izzy

Syria and his mom (1/2 of the government) get a bit intense if you talk about his neighbors Lebby and Izzy (Jordy’s OK, though.) In fact, you’re really can’t even say Izzy in its full form (see, I learned well—I won’t even use it in a sentence here on my post–LOL).

Most people just call him Disney. It rhymes with Izzy and it’s a good code name. And you want that because if you do say Izzy and someone hears you, Syria’s Mommy gets upset

PS: Don’t attempt to have a date with Syria if you’ve had one with Izzy. Syria’s Daddy (border officials) will get pissy, I can promise you, and you’ll have to go back to Lebby or Jordy. And as you know, it’s never good to go back to an ex.

7. Dress for a Night at a Club

It may seem obvious and a bit of a no-brainer, but it’s not advisable for women to wear spaghetti straps, tank tops or to show cleavage. Syria doesn’t care for provocative or revealing clothing. Remember—he’s not Barcelona or Ibiza!

The reason? He’s just not used to seeing uncovered women. And believe me, even if you’re having a bad hair day or feel bloated or dress like you’re going to the supermarket, he’ll be looking anyway. He can’t help it. And most of the time, there’s no offense intended.

8. Be too friendly

Yes, Syria’s a nice guy, but  he is a guy and if you’re a woman, it’s easy for him to misread a basic smile and think it’s something more. Female travelers shouldn’t be as friendly as they would in a European country. White lying re: being married or engaged is a good idea if you’d like to avoid the attention you’ll get if you ID yourself as single.

9. Worry

It’s a very safe country. Not the kind of place where you have to wear a money belt and hide your money in three places. Having said this, there are some nusiances such as (women) getting too much attention.

Pick pocketing, assault and rape are rare, but a friend of mine from France, waiting for a bus, was approached by a man who tried to kiss her. She backed away and kicked him in the butt!

10. Be Afraid to Have Fun/Party

If you’re in Damascus, a place that’s used to having foreigners, including students, things are a bit liberal. There are a few areas in the Christian Quarter, like LaTumba, where there’s a pretty good party scene going on. That’s where you go if you want a drink. Find some friends at your hostel and have a night out.

How About You?

Have questions about Syria? Just ask. Have a tip to share? Please do. And just want to say, once again, that I highly recommend Syria as a travel destination. Check out the other parts of this series to see why:

Part 1: 1st Date & Still Smitten: Thought he was a ‘bad boy,’ but learned that he was great. Reasons you should considering checking him—Syria—out.

Part 2: Torn Between 2 Husbands: A fun day in which I worked as an extra on a Syrian TV show and had two husbands—and met a famous actor.

Part 3: Juicy Details of My 2nd Date: Experience my trip via a photo essay and vid-style slide show on YouTube. Vicarious thrills guaranteed.

Information about obtaining a visa for entrance to Syria can be found here.