SWF in Syria (1): First Date & Still Smitten

In some ways, traveling to Syria was like going on a blind date…with someone who looks like a bad boy on the outside, but is actually a great guy on the inside.

Of course, I didn’t know that when I met him for the first time.

People Warned Me

I’d been warned that he was a cousin or nephew of the Axis of Evil brothers and so, when I met him and his family at the border, I did hesitate for a moment. First of all, it wasn’t a very romantic setting for a first date. He–the bad boy father–looked a little intimidating–especially in the family photos.

Second, he (daddy) made me pay for the date–$130 for the visa. And then the chaperone uncle, the border official, didn’t exactly give me the warm and fuzzies. In fact, he sort of snarled when he saw my passport was American. Perhaps he didn’t think I was his nephew’s type.

Still, despite all of this, I decided to give him–Syria, that is–a chance.

And I’m glad I did.

Meeting Mr.Right

As luck would have it, Syria was, frankly, the Mr. Right of the various Middle Eastern countries I visited a few months ago (although I must say I find myself fantasizing about more time with Lebanon, another alleged bad boy who’s actually quite wonderful, with whom my time was short)  in many ways.

Sure, being a female on my own presented a few challenges (tips  on how to make this work are coming later in this series), but not nearly as many as I expected. The truth is–Syria had that just-right combination of qualities that made me fall in love with it.

This occurred within my first 24 hours in Damascus, where I ended up at a cool backpacker place called Al Rabie (which I highly recommend). I found the city, with its ancient labyrinthine streets–full of barbers, shoemakers and numerous characters–to be something special. I liked it right away.

But then, shortly thereafter, I fell in love with the country as a whole. Here’s what appealed to me about him–the country, I mean:

1. Fascinating History/Architecture, etc.

Syria is part of the Cradle of Civilization–where it all began. It was part of the Ottoman Empire for 4 centuries and was under the rule of the Romans, Persians and it was conquered many times due to its natural boundaries and strategic location as a trade route. Because of that, it has a lot to offer in terms of history, heritage, culture and architecture.

You can see Roman ruins, a mind-blowing crusader castle, souks (markets) that allow you to step back into time, gorgeous mosques and so much more. Syria isn’t just a pretty boy; he’s interesting and fascinating on every level.

2) Lack of crowds

Sure there’s a high season, and certain areas can get busy and a bit crowded, like Damascus (especially the Christian Quarter, where the partying is allowed).

But it never gets as crowded as some of the tourist traps in nearby countries (like Jordan’s Petra and certain areas of Egypt.) And I never saw those umbrella-toting tour guides you see in Europe.

A couple times, outside of large cities, I was among only just a few tourists and had that one-of-a-kind feeling of really being off the beaten path.

3) Affordability

After spending a couple of weeks in Jordan, which I found to be a bit pricey, I appreciated the low prices in Syria. Buses were dirt cheap and taxis were quite inexpensive as well.

And the food, which–by the way–is fabulous, didn’t cost very  much at all. I recall getting a decent falafel for under a dollar and a smoothie for around the same price. The same price for great hummus, too. For a few dollars, you can eat really well, enjoying kebabs and other tasty dishes.

4) Hospitality and Helpfulness

People are super nice and friendly in most of Syria (occasionally, in small/conservative areas, a woman might be harrassed).

You’re often invited for tea by the people you meet, and I was offered help quite frequently. On several occasions, I was accompanied right to my destination by someone after I’d gotten lost.

The barber in this photo invited me in to his shop many times and kept saying, “Welcome…welcome.” It’s a common occurrence in this country, by the way.

One man walked with me for 20 minutes to make sure I got back to my hotel OK! Another day, a musician invited me and a friend to his house to listen to music and have some tea. This type of hospitality is quite common.

5) Soul-Searching Opportunities

Whether you’re religious, spiritual or neither, Syria can provide just what you need if you’re looking to introspect and do some soul-searching.

There are churches, mosques, monasteries and even a town (Maloula) where people still speak Aramaic, the ancient language of Jesus.

And there are areas that are simply ancient and beautiful where you can find tranquility and peace of mind while walking and enjoying the scenery–in a spiritual or non-spiritual way. I went to a monastery, Mar Musa, which was a really welcoming place.

It’s free (just do some volunteer work), it’s friendly (there are Syrians, backpackers and all types of people) and it’s a liberal place to be (you  go to the ‘meditation/service’–only if you want to.

6) Awesome Place to Learn ‘Al Arabía’

Damascus has become one of the best and most popular places to learn Arabic in the world, with numerous schools and universities dedicated to the language.

It’s super affordable, too, with one of the most popular courses at the University of Damascus costing approximately $400 for a one-month intensive program (as of last summer).

photo © 2009 Debby Bosman | more info (via: Wylio)

There are other longer-term courses that cost more, but they’re still considered affordable. Housing is inexpensive, too, so you can stick around for a while.

More importantly, there are many opportunities in Damascus and Syria in general to practice the language since not everyone speaks English.

In Jordan, one of the neighboring countries, so many people speak English that it’s very difficut to learn Arabic (unless you’re in a small town, of course.)

7. Cool Travelers/Interesting Expats

Normally, I wouldn’t list this because I usually focus my time mostly on the locals and less on other travelers. But in Syria, I simply adored the backpackers I met and found myself chatting with them for hours and hours.

They were a friendly, bright and intrepid bunch of people with whom I immediately connected. People of all different ages with a wide range of interests. Some were there to learn Arabic…others wanted to see the Middle East firsthand, to understand its conflicts before forming an opinion. And others just wanted to see the country and learn more about its history, etc.

If you look past the externals (and ignore some of the media’s distortions), you see that he–I mean, Syria–is worth getting to know and a place you’d like to see again. If you’re still on the fence about whether Syria is a worthwhile (travel) date, then consider this….

8. A Soft/Romantic Side

Syria may look like a bad boy (and sure, he has his moments like everyone), but he can be sweet and even romantic. Check out this poem by Nizar Qabbani, one of the greatest Arab poets of all time.

Love Compared (by Nizar Qabbani)

I do not resemble your other lovers, my lady
should another give you a cloud
I give you rain
Should he give you a lantern,
I will give you the moon
Should he give you a branch
I will give you the trees
And if another gives you a ship
I shall give you the journey.

How about you?

Would you visit or have you ever traveled to Syria or other ‘bad boy countries’–aka, ‘rogue nations’? What was it like? What are you thoughts re: traveling to the Middle East in general?

Click here to read the next part of this series: SWF in Syria (2): Two Husbands in One Day or check out my 2nd date (which has a video with cool music) here. No time? Then just go right to the tips, found here!